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24th April 2005, 20:54 | #11 |
Posts: n/a
| using glue to attach a barb to a radiator isn't a good idea, it'll get loose in no time |
24th April 2005, 21:29 | #12 |
Madshrimp Join Date: May 2002 Location: 7090/Belgium
Posts: 79,021
| sure, it's not your system, so if a leak develops after 3 weeks, who cares?
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24th April 2005, 21:57 | #13 |
Member Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,823
| Eheh, my bank account cares
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24th April 2005, 21:59 | #14 |
Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium)
Posts: 2,037
| i am willing to fix it for you easypanic normaly you where comming 4 may not?
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24th April 2005, 22:19 | #15 |
Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium)
Posts: 2,037
| i recommend solder or brazing
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24th April 2005, 23:12 | #16 | |
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| Quote:
but if easypanic is comming the 4th of may, it might be just as easy to get jort to fix it then | |
25th April 2005, 00:50 | #17 | ||
Member Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 923
| Quote:
Look up on inet what sort of glue you need to use, some glues are even better instead of brazing them. I recommend a glue that has a good fitting towards water and good strenght so you can't get it loose when you turn or press. and above that you can weld it or do a bit of silicone above it.(like in showers) Edit: Quote:
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25th April 2005, 09:44 | #18 | |
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| Quote:
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25th April 2005, 10:54 | #19 |
Member Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,823
| Ok, 99% sure I can come the 4th of May . I'll bring along my radiator and my superb cpu :grin: :feesten:
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25th April 2005, 13:15 | #20 |
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| Just clean it hard to blank copper. The broken copper tube you can use again because its the correct diameter for the hole in the radiator, just heat it up and remove the "old" solder. Put some liquid solderflux on both the surfaces, and use some light torch (not to big , or you wil loose the other fittings). After that, just give it a light pressure leak test ps: the difference between soldering and welding(brazing) is the temperature. Brazing is always + 450° melting point temperature |
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