Waterbox project
 

I don't have a right name for my project yet, but it'll come :)

So I'm going to make a little barebone to put on my case (full plexy thing)

In this barebone there will be 3 Black Ice Extreme's, 1 Eheim 1060, 1 self made reservoir for 2 liters, 4x120mm fans

Now for the coolblocks, I'm planning to PELT cool the stuff,

If I want to PELT cool my GPU/CPU/NB, how do I do that and what extra PSU shall I need?

Is it nessesary to cool the GPU/NB?

Block4CPU: Not sure whats the best of the best
Block4GPU: Swiftech MCW50-T
Block4NB : Not sure whats the best of the best

greetings :^)

if your'e not overclocking extreme, no pelt is needed on GPu or northbridge.

Remember, 1 psu won't be enough for 3 pelts.

PSU pelt (172 watt ? or more) is 1 dedicated SPU, probably 24V

GPU and northbridge is another, 12V psu, with enough of amps on the 12V rail.

Lots of juice needed, overkill.

Well, If I buy an Antec 520W or something in that direction, should that be enough to feed 3 times 80w pelts ? :D



:grin: :king:

Probably it will be enough to feed 3*80w
but 1 of them will fry your cpu, because it's not enough for high performance cpu's

why 3 times 80 watt ?

80 watt is not enough for cpu, is fine for GPU an heavy overkill for Northbridge....

3*80 watt on a 550 will be ok, if that's a dedicated PSU, not the one for your system.

Do not underestimate the power of pelts

Looks like an expensive and dangerous solution.

Looks like you want very serious cooling but a prommy may be out of your budget.

I would recommend a chiller in stead of that pelt solution. So basically you'll buy and install your H20 setup and you hook up an external source to cool that water. Some people use an old fridge, some people buy el cheapo airco, ... some use ice cubes, ... sufficient possibilities and fairly trustworthy.

You only have to watch out for condensation.

Here ya go, have fun :D
http://www.daocplace.com/index.php?article=acrylic
http://www.overclockers.co.nz/ocnz/c...atsink/2.shtml
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1043/

The Idea is to put everything in an extra (old case that aren't built in height but in length) case ...

so, all pc parts in my case, and all: pumps, rads, PSU for pelt's, res, just everything from the WC in one case and put it underneat it or on it... :^D

Waterblock's, it's all about waterblocks, which ones should I buy in your opinion

I don't care if it's overkill, I want to assemble the BEST WC there could be, no mather what price

waste of money in my humble opinion, for that price you'll be able to buy a prom

Had one, borked one, no thanks again :)

Don't get it, with all respect.

Sounds like someone wanting to order a super-da-luxe plug and play sound surround system ... to play old and scratched 75 rpm records on.

what did you break?
the evaporator? bend the pipe to the evap on bad angle? killed the compressor?
can't it be repaired? if it can, i want it :D.

Sold it to a guy in my school, the there was some kind of pipe bend, and then... I didn't feel like doing all the **** by RMA'ing it and stuff, so sold the whole damn thing for 800€ (I paid 900€ incl. sending costs, LCD)

I dnno what he done with it


It's not like i'm going to cool a P2 300 with it, it's for a :
XP 1700 JUIHB DLT3C 0311
XP 2600 AUIHB (nice oc'er, cut bridges for multi's)
XP 3200 (soon, ordered, but still waiting :D)
Vmodded nf7-S r2.0 (done by a friend, I don't know **** about that)
soon Twinmos PC 3200 with bh/5

Exactly what i ment. As you have that material i wouldn't go for a H20 setup with pelts. I would choose H20 + chiller or a prommy.

btw: i have a XP2600 on a NF7 r2 and i can choose whatever multi without bridge-cutting.

also over 13 ?

yep,

tried 13 and 13,5 ... boots fine into windows. As 13,5 gets too hot (56°C stressed) in my silent box i turned back to 12,5.

could you try over 14 ?

some people can boot with the 14 multi, not higher.

i have a amd 2600+ and when i set the multiplier @ 13 or more, it just is 6.5 or something less

Before the cutting bridges on my 2600, I couldn't select 13,5and higher, since I've done so, I can, what mobo ya have? Got a nf² here :^D


Btw: Watter Chiller???
It has to fit in a little pc case (the whole system) that is going to stand next to my case I have now (the water is going to flow trough the tubes, but my dad is going to make "kraantjes" to undo the tubes so I have 2 separate cases if I go to a LAN)

Done some googeling:
It's just a normal watercooling setup with different blocks or something? dunt get it :/

http://www.vapochill.com/default.asp?showPage=startside.asp&param=sideid&my value=14&contentSection=2&menuID=-1

For OC'ing the uneven multi's 11 - 13 and 15 should be good. Seems kinda sensitive about multi's: some have succes at 13, no go at 14, but succes at 15 :wtf: Roulette anyone ?

I'm not going to try it out till i have a new case. This one is too hot and i need it for work. Replacing a cpu when having a removeable mobotray takes 10 minutes top ... takes quite a bit longer in my cramped case.

@ Bleam: i gave you 3 fine links, here's N°4: http://www.procooling.com/articles/

Fine, thanks :)

those are indeed fine links, and the 4th one is verry fine

overall: fine :ws:

I'm going to buy Asetek coolbocks from the waterchill
eheim 1048 pump
self made res
no pelts (yet... until I know how to use 'm well)

Lolz, I don't think he meant the Asetek Waterchill, but a waterchiller. This is used to chill water for example in Aquariums!!

Maybe use a pelt to cool the water that's flowing to your case. Not too much (condens) but just that whee bit to bring it below room temp.

If you do plan on using pelts in the main rig. Do keep in mind that a normal PSU isn't designed to be stressed only on the +12V line. You'd be better of with a 300W-350W 12V DC convertor.

But pelts are a very dangerous, inefficient and expensive way of cooling things.
They add up to 90% of the PC's total heat output. Which in this weather is a killer unless you have good airco.