is the barb (fitting) tapped, soldered or welded? |
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maybe Jort can weld it back together;) |
wow, nice closeup. what camera ? |
offtopc: Canon Powershot A60 ;) |
blah :) |
Help me instead of showing off :p |
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So you could fix my rad? :p ;) |
using glue to attach a barb to a radiator isn't a good idea, it'll get loose in no time |
sure, it's not your system, so if a leak develops after 3 weeks, who cares? :p |
Eheh, my bank account cares :p :p |
i am willing to fix it for you easypanic:) normaly you where comming 4 may not? |
i recommend solder or brazing:) |
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but if easypanic is comming the 4th of may, it might be just as easy to get jort to fix it then :) |
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Look up on inet what sort of glue you need to use, some glues are even better instead of brazing them. I recommend a glue that has a good fitting towards water and good strenght so you can't get it loose when you turn or press. and above that you can weld it or do a bit of silicone above it.(like in showers) Edit: Quote:
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Ok, 99% sure I can come the 4th of May :super: . I'll bring along my radiator and my superb cpu :grin: :banana: :feesten: |
Just clean it hard to blank copper. The broken copper tube you can use again because its the correct diameter for the hole in the radiator, just heat it up and remove the "old" solder. Put some liquid solderflux on both the surfaces, and use some light torch (not to big , or you wil loose the other fittings). After that, just give it a light pressure leak test ;) ps: the difference between soldering and welding(brazing) is the temperature. Brazing is always + 450° melting point temperature |
car heater core are cheap at a junkyard if everything fails . $5.00 maybe $10.00 . |
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