Mach2ST give's mach2GT run for the money!!

jort · 1st March 2006, 21:09

Today the Mach2ST left the Phase-change workhouse. This unit is from a guy called Jasper aka The doctor on GOT.

The unit was allready refilled with R507 by haeg, but the crappy evap and mounting was still the same. When you have a phase-change cooler not only temps are important, the Mounting is also a key to succes.
I Replaced all weak links from this unit to provide all the power this unit can give to an overclocker.

The weakness of the unit is the flexible hose, is very sensitive for bending straight edges.
After some intensive usage the hose will or prolly will crack.

The evap is something special, you realy need to "prepare" the mount of the evap with some sticky Sealstring.
Getting the sealstring of the mobo is another story.(some people removed even components while removing the sealstring.

Insulation is a pita on this unit too, stock insulation is realy thin and they made it even worse by putting some heatingwire around it.
The evap stays dry when the heater is working, if not you will get condensation.
Heat is losing performance and thats something a overclocking never want's.
So i redid all that to make the perfect Prometeia

Lets get started shall we.

Lets start with the evap first, I got the evap from a german guy called Jan.
The evap is real piece of art and defently better than the stock evap.

The evap i am going to use is the one on the left, with 4 steps.

Opened the valve of propane so air is removed from the inside of the evap,
When purging with propane you should allways pay attention and keep your brains online.

I am heating the evap with a campingfire so i don’t waste any oxygen/propane on the heatingprocces,
I heat the evap further with my Torch, because the campingfire doens’t reach the temperature to melt the brazingrod.

The propane purging keeps the oxygen outside so no oxygen/copper reaction can take place,
This way the evap stays nice and clean inside.

The evap is now brazed tight and ready to cool down.

I leave the flame on till the evap is handwarm, if you turn of the purging-procces while the evap is still hot moisture can still form on the inside.

Cleaned the evap with the dremel and some sandingpaper.Smooth base.

Then i made a brand new lenght of flexible stainless steen hose, it has an ID of ~ 10mm and 17 mm OD. The hose is used with the braid to provide more strenght to the hose to prevent any damage while using the Prometeia.
Jasper asked me to increase the lenght of the hose by 5cm so i did. Its 50 cm now.

Later i added a desuperheat coil to make a buffer on the hot gasses, because the stock condensor is small. At the summer this unit can get quite hot so it provides a little more cooling of the discharge gasses. Also vibrations are neutralised in the coil.

Cleaned the desuperheater with some steel wool.

Removed the wire’s that lead to the heater inside the evap, and removed the capillairy tube from the suctionpipe.

Redid the capillairy tube and insulated the suctionpipe.

Preinstalled the insulation on the flexible tube and ready to evacuate the unit.

Used an ITE vacuumpomp to take care of the job.

Made the unit ready for testing, added new mesh around the flexible because the insulation is mutch thicker so the stock mesh is too short.

Added some extra insulation after the evap because thats one of the coldest parst of the unit.

Front side of the unit.

While testing the unit on a resitor dummyload of 150W i got these temps on the suction of the evap.The K-Type thermocouple is placed 2 cm after the evap exit.

Temps stayed solid on -41.4 with R507 as coolant.

Closeup of the evap and base of the dummyload.

Dummyload:

3 resistors of 1kohm and 50W are placed in parallel, with 230V that should give around 150W

Insulated the electric connections with hot glue, we wouldn’t want anyone to get hurt won’t we?

1 resistor is not insulated because i am going to add another resistor and still need to solder it onto it.

Hope you enjoyed reading the article.

jort · 1st March 2006, 21:17

John you can put this into an article if you want

if you need any more pics, just ask

do i need to send you the file's in a PIZ file ?

jmke · 1st March 2006, 21:26

a PIZ file is always cool :grin:

very nice read - do you have more info on the dummy load and what the results were before/after?

very pro- looking work

jort · 1st March 2006, 21:38

No i made the dummyload yesterday so.

The dummyload is just 3 wireresistors of 50W and 1Kohm connected in parallel on 230V, mounted on a block of copper of 1cm thick. The other side is a piece of hmpe plastic so the heat will travel true the copper and not the other side.

The unit did -57° unloaded but i don't have a pic.

i'll ask the owner to take a pic of it

Btw 2 best looking units atm.

jmke · 1st March 2006, 21:44

the left one really looks hardcore

I believe your -57°C claim, no pic required

Sidney · 1st March 2006, 21:52

jort,

Should you come visit the U.S., drop by my house. I have all the tools you need in the garage

I worked for Imperial Eastman and got all the life time test samples; manifold, tube cutters, benders, swagging

jort · 1st March 2006, 21:59

Quote:

Originally posted by jmke
the left one really looks hardcore

I believe your -57°C claim, no pic required

oke thanks, yeah hardcore idd

Quote:

Originally posted by lazyman
jort,

Should you come visit the U.S., drop by my house. I have all the tools you need in the garage I worked for Imperial Eastman and got all the life time test samples; manifold, tube cutters, benders, swagging

i am collection a nice collecting of tools here myself

damn you lucky man, when i visit the states i'll sure send you a mail.

We can mod some stuff then

and play on your 40" lcd monitor

jort · 2nd March 2006, 20:34

someone interested

jort · 16th March 2006, 21:02

not going to make a new thread for this so i'll just post it here.

today i finaly loaded the prom mach1 with 200W of heat!

the unit stayed nice and smooth.

Evaptemp of -26° and suctiontemp of -41°

this beast like's to be loaded

full article in french later this week

jmke · 16th March 2006, 21:13

www.overclex.com

1st March 2006, 21:09	#1
jort Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium) Posts: 2,037	Mach2ST give's mach2GT run for the money!! Today the Mach2ST left the Phase-change workhouse. This unit is from a guy called Jasper aka The doctor on GOT. The unit was allready refilled with R507 by haeg, but the crappy evap and mounting was still the same. When you have a phase-change cooler not only temps are important, the Mounting is also a key to succes. I Replaced all weak links from this unit to provide all the power this unit can give to an overclocker. The weakness of the unit is the flexible hose, is very sensitive for bending straight edges. After some intensive usage the hose will or prolly will crack. The evap is something special, you realy need to "prepare" the mount of the evap with some sticky Sealstring. Getting the sealstring of the mobo is another story.(some people removed even components while removing the sealstring. Insulation is a pita on this unit too, stock insulation is realy thin and they made it even worse by putting some heatingwire around it. The evap stays dry when the heater is working, if not you will get condensation. Heat is losing performance and thats something a overclocking never want's. So i redid all that to make the perfect Prometeia Lets get started shall we. Lets start with the evap first, I got the evap from a german guy called Jan. The evap is real piece of art and defently better than the stock evap. The evap i am going to use is the one on the left, with 4 steps. Opened the valve of propane so air is removed from the inside of the evap, When purging with propane you should allways pay attention and keep your brains online. I am heating the evap with a campingfire so i don’t waste any oxygen/propane on the heatingprocces, I heat the evap further with my Torch, because the campingfire doens’t reach the temperature to melt the brazingrod. The propane purging keeps the oxygen outside so no oxygen/copper reaction can take place, This way the evap stays nice and clean inside. The evap is now brazed tight and ready to cool down. I leave the flame on till the evap is handwarm, if you turn of the purging-procces while the evap is still hot moisture can still form on the inside. Cleaned the evap with the dremel and some sandingpaper.Smooth base. Then i made a brand new lenght of flexible stainless steen hose, it has an ID of ~ 10mm and 17 mm OD. The hose is used with the braid to provide more strenght to the hose to prevent any damage while using the Prometeia. Jasper asked me to increase the lenght of the hose by 5cm so i did. Its 50 cm now. Later i added a desuperheat coil to make a buffer on the hot gasses, because the stock condensor is small. At the summer this unit can get quite hot so it provides a little more cooling of the discharge gasses. Also vibrations are neutralised in the coil. Cleaned the desuperheater with some steel wool. Removed the wire’s that lead to the heater inside the evap, and removed the capillairy tube from the suctionpipe. Redid the capillairy tube and insulated the suctionpipe. Preinstalled the insulation on the flexible tube and ready to evacuate the unit. Used an ITE vacuumpomp to take care of the job. Made the unit ready for testing, added new mesh around the flexible because the insulation is mutch thicker so the stock mesh is too short. Added some extra insulation after the evap because thats one of the coldest parst of the unit. Front side of the unit. While testing the unit on a resitor dummyload of 150W i got these temps on the suction of the evap.The K-Type thermocouple is placed 2 cm after the evap exit. Temps stayed solid on -41.4 with R507 as coolant. Closeup of the evap and base of the dummyload. Dummyload: 3 resistors of 1kohm and 50W are placed in parallel, with 230V that should give around 150W Insulated the electric connections with hot glue, we wouldn’t want anyone to get hurt won’t we? 1 resistor is not insulated because i am going to add another resistor and still need to solder it onto it. Hope you enjoyed reading the article. __________________ watercooling, chilled water,direct phase change, cascade, custom modding

1st March 2006, 21:17	#2
jort Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium) Posts: 2,037	John you can put this into an article if you want if you need any more pics, just ask do i need to send you the file's in a PIZ file ? __________________ watercooling, chilled water,direct phase change, cascade, custom modding

1st March 2006, 21:26	#3
jmke Madshrimp Join Date: May 2002 Location: 7090/Belgium Posts: 79,021	a PIZ file is always cool :grin: very nice read - do you have more info on the dummy load and what the results were before/after? very pro- looking work __________________

1st March 2006, 21:38	#4
jort Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium) Posts: 2,037	No i made the dummyload yesterday so. The dummyload is just 3 wireresistors of 50W and 1Kohm connected in parallel on 230V, mounted on a block of copper of 1cm thick. The other side is a piece of hmpe plastic so the heat will travel true the copper and not the other side. The unit did -57° unloaded but i don't have a pic. i'll ask the owner to take a pic of it Btw 2 best looking units atm. __________________ watercooling, chilled water,direct phase change, cascade, custom modding

1st March 2006, 21:44	#5
jmke Madshrimp Join Date: May 2002 Location: 7090/Belgium Posts: 79,021	the left one really looks hardcore I believe your -57°C claim, no pic required __________________

1st March 2006, 21:52	#6
Sidney Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 15,738	jort, Should you come visit the U.S., drop by my house. I have all the tools you need in the garage I worked for Imperial Eastman and got all the life time test samples; manifold, tube cutters, benders, swagging __________________ lazyman Opteron 165 (2) @2.85 1.42 vcore AMD Stock HSF + Chill Vent II

2nd March 2006, 20:34	#8
jort Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium) Posts: 2,037	someone interested __________________ watercooling, chilled water,direct phase change, cascade, custom modding

16th March 2006, 21:02	#9
jort Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: mechelen(belgium) Posts: 2,037	Overclex mach1 200W heatloaded!! not going to make a new thread for this so i'll just post it here. today i finaly loaded the prom mach1 with 200W of heat! the unit stayed nice and smooth. Evaptemp of -26° and suctiontemp of -41° this beast like's to be loaded full article in french later this week __________________ watercooling, chilled water,direct phase change, cascade, custom modding

16th March 2006, 21:13	#10
jmke Madshrimp Join Date: May 2002 Location: 7090/Belgium Posts: 79,021	www.overclex.com __________________

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