Mach2ST give's mach2GT run for the money!!
Today the Mach2ST left the Phase-change workhouse. This unit is from a guy called Jasper aka The doctor on GOT.
The unit was allready refilled with R507 by haeg, but the crappy evap and mounting was still the same. When you have a phase-change cooler not only temps are important, the Mounting is also a key to succes.
I Replaced all weak links from this unit to provide all the power this unit can give to an overclocker.
The weakness of the unit is the flexible hose, is very sensitive for bending straight edges.
After some intensive usage the hose will or prolly will crack.
The evap is something special, you realy need to "prepare" the mount of the evap with some sticky Sealstring.
Getting the sealstring of the mobo is another story.(some people removed even components while removing the sealstring.
Insulation is a pita on this unit too, stock insulation is realy thin and they made it even worse by putting some heatingwire around it.
The evap stays dry when the heater is working, if not you will get condensation.
Heat is losing performance and thats something a overclocking never want's.
So i redid all that to make the perfect Prometeia:king:
Lets get started shall we.
Lets start with the evap first, I got the evap from a german guy called Jan.
The evap is real piece of art and defently better than the stock evap.
The evap i am going to use is the one on the left, with 4 steps.
Opened the valve of propane so air is removed from the inside of the evap,
When purging with propane you should allways pay attention and keep your brains online.
I am heating the evap with a campingfire so i don’t waste any oxygen/propane on the heatingprocces,
I heat the evap further with my Torch, because the campingfire doens’t reach the temperature to melt the brazingrod.
The propane purging keeps the oxygen outside so no oxygen/copper reaction can take place,
This way the evap stays nice and clean inside.
The evap is now brazed tight and ready to cool down.
I leave the flame on till the evap is handwarm, if you turn of the purging-procces while the evap is still hot moisture can still form on the inside.
Cleaned the evap with the dremel and some sandingpaper.Smooth base.
Then i made a brand new lenght of flexible stainless steen hose, it has an ID of ~ 10mm and 17 mm OD. The hose is used with the braid to provide more strenght to the hose to prevent any damage while using the Prometeia.
Jasper asked me to increase the lenght of the hose by 5cm so i did. Its 50 cm now.
Later i added a desuperheat coil to make a buffer on the hot gasses, because the stock condensor is small. At the summer this unit can get quite hot so it provides a little more cooling of the discharge gasses. Also vibrations are neutralised in the coil.
Cleaned the desuperheater with some steel wool.
Removed the wire’s that lead to the heater inside the evap, and removed the capillairy tube from the suctionpipe.
Redid the capillairy tube and insulated the suctionpipe.
Preinstalled the insulation on the flexible tube and ready to evacuate the unit.
Used an ITE vacuumpomp to take care of the job.
Made the unit ready for testing, added new mesh around the flexible because the insulation is mutch thicker so the stock mesh is too short.
Added some extra insulation after the evap because thats one of the coldest parst of the unit.
Front side of the unit.
While testing the unit on a resitor dummyload of 150W i got these temps on the suction of the evap.The K-Type thermocouple is placed 2 cm after the evap exit.
Temps stayed solid on -41.4 with R507 as coolant.
Closeup of the evap and base of the dummyload.
3 resistors of 1kohm and 50W are placed in parallel, with 230V that should give around 150W
Insulated the electric connections with hot glue, we wouldn’t want anyone to get hurt won’t we?
1 resistor is not insulated because i am going to add another resistor and still need to solder it onto it.
Hope you enjoyed reading the article.
John you can put this into an article if you want;)
if you need any more pics, just ask;)
do i need to send you the file's in a PIZ file ?:^D
a PIZ file is always cool :grin:
very nice read - do you have more info on the dummy load and what the results were before/after?
very pro- looking work
No i made the dummyload yesterday so.
The dummyload is just 3 wireresistors of 50W and 1Kohm connected in parallel on 230V, mounted on a block of copper of 1cm thick. The other side is a piece of hmpe plastic so the heat will travel true the copper and not the other side.
The unit did -57° unloaded but i don't have a pic.
i'll ask the owner to take a pic of it ;)
Btw 2 best looking units atm.
the left one really looks hardcore :)
I believe your -57°C claim, no pic required:)
Should you come visit the U.S., drop by my house. I have all the tools you need in the garage;) I worked for Imperial Eastman and got all the life time test samples; manifold, tube cutters, benders, swagging :D
damn you lucky man, when i visit the states i'll sure send you a mail.
We can mod some stuff then :D
and play on your 40" lcd monitor :^D
Overclex mach1 200W heatloaded!!
|All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:26.|
Powered by vBulletin® - Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO