Soldering Guide

Howto by Marci @ 2004-02-29

If you want to push your hardware to the maximum you are bound to warm up the old soldering iron. To allow higher voltages to RAM/CPU/Videocard and other components you´ll have to use resistors. In this guide we'll show you how to effectively do this!

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Tinning the wire

You will need....

  • Good variable soldering iron with a fine tip unto 45w
  • acid less flux
  • good quality flux less solder
  • a solder sucker

    Madshrimps (c)


    Any dead PC Hardware has chips on with similar size legs for playing around with. I'm using a popped Asus motherboard....

    Madshrimps (c)


    And we're going to be going from a leg on the chip to the right, to a grounding ring on the left...

    Madshrimps (c)


    I use CD-ROM Audio leads or strands off old HDD Cables for wires for my volt mods. CDRom Audio leads have the handy connector at each end that an 18-turn Cermet style VR just plugs straight onto...

    Madshrimps (c)


    So, cut a CD-Rom audio cable in half. Look at the ends and find out which wires are the two outer connectors.... usually red and white.
    Start with the red wire (we'll use it as hot). This is done by stripping back a section of shielding, twisting the bare wires together,

    Madshrimps (c)


    dip into flux,

    Madshrimps (c)


    heat the wire with the soldering iron set to a fairly hot heat,

    Madshrimps (c)


    then touch solder to wire and it should lightly coat the wire with solder.

    Madshrimps (c)


    Voila.... it’s tinned.

    Madshrimps (c)
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    Comment from [Bonbon] @ 2004/03/01
    what is 'flux' ?
    Comment from [Bonbon] @ 2004/03/01
    those links dont help me

    'dip into the flux' = ?
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/03/01
    look at the picture! it is a material to enchance the "grip" of the solder on your metal
    ask in any electronic shop, they'll know what you want
    Comment from [Bonbon] @ 2004/03/01
    ah yes i looked at the pic ,
    now i know it enhances the 'grip' of the soldering
    thx
    Comment from TeuS @ 2004/03/01
    soldering flux is some kind of acid. watch out for your skin and eyes!
    Comment from HaLDoL @ 2004/03/02
    What kind of soldering wire is recomended? Some have 60% of tin, other 80% ... Some even have 3.5% flux in them.
    Comment from Unregistered @ 2004/03/04
    hi
    Comment from Unregistered @ 2004/03/04
    Flux cleans the surface of a part/wire so that solder will 'wet' it (instead of beading up and coming off). Two types of flux: acid and rosin. Acid flux is great for doing plumbing, bad for electronics. Rosin flux is safer for electonics, but can conduct small amounts of current. Alway immediately clean off excess flux with isopropyl alcohol.

    Rather than trying to put a small amount of flux on an IC leg, dip the tinned wire into the flux (picking up a small amount of flux), hold the wire it to the leg, and apply your iron.

    Wipe your iron regularly and keep it tinned. If the tip of your iron isn't coated with a thin layer shiny molten solder, you're doing something wrong.

    Most any solder will do, except acid flux cored. Lead based is the easiest to work with, but has obvious drawbacks. 80/20 tin-antimony is my favorite.
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/03/04
    thanks for your input!
    Comment from Unregistered @ 2004/03/05
    what has the soldering you have done in the article achieved
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/03/05
    well, since the motherboard used in the article was a dead one ...
    the article is aimed at giving pointers to increase your soldering skills, so you don't screw up "live" hardware


    this weekend I'm going to voltmod my Abit NF7-S
    http://www.madshrimps.be/forums/show...&threadid=4257
    Comment from TeuS @ 2004/03/05
    Quote:
    Originally posted by jmke
    this weekend I'm going to voltmod my Abit NF7-S
    http://www.madshrimps.be/forums/show...&threadid=4257
    going to solder it yourself?
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/03/05
    that's what the "I" in my phrase means...
    Comment from HaLDoL @ 2004/03/08
    and flux can be found where? In DIY stores as Brico/gamma/... or in more specialised shops (velleman dealers)?
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/03/08
    I think you'll have more luck in a velleman reseller
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/20
    this guide helped me a lot.

    Now i'm practicing my 1337 soldering skills on some boken PCI vga cards , this evening on my 9800 pro/XT

    Moeha !
    Comment from Sidney @ 2004/04/20
    Buy the spool solder with flux built in.
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/20
    normal solder, no flux overhere:

    Linkie to Vmod pictures
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/04/20
    clean work, which guide are you using for the R9800 mod?
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/20
    madshrimps guide duh !

    hey, not bad for my first solder job huh

    Quote:
    Originally posted by jmke
    this weekend I'm going to voltmod my Abit NF7-S
    and ? :-)
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/04/21
    that was almost 2 months ago, never found the time and space, have the space now, but need the time
    Comment from 187(V)URD@ @ 2004/04/21
    Quote:
    Originally posted by jmke
    that was almost 2 months ago, never found the time and space, have the space now, but need the time
    I can solder it for you
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/04/21
    if you pay the mobo if it brakes, sure
    Comment from 187(V)URD@ @ 2004/04/21
    I can solder for sure , but never did a mod.
    Its time for me to finish school and go to work so i can buy some mobos for modding

    I don't have the money if something must go wrong so i wait till I work or my board doesn't have garantie

    i never touch someones hardware unless i am sure what i am doing and i got the money if it die

    anyway have fun voltmodding .
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/21
    Comment from Sidney @ 2004/04/21
    piotke,
    There are talkers and doers; you are the doer.
    I admire the latter.
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/21
    Had to cut 2 lines, soler on the PCB itself, ...

    Tomorrow it's time to test some watercooling
    Comment from 187(V)URD@ @ 2004/04/21
    Quote:
    Originally posted by lazyman
    piotke,
    There are talkers and doers; you are the doer.
    I admire the latter.
    that was aimed to me? (talkers)
    Comment from 187(V)URD@ @ 2004/04/23
    well anyway , I solder once in week electronic velleman components so don't think is hard for me to vmod

    I just don't solder hardware , if something goes wrong with mobo or graca I loose my garantie and hardware is expensive for a student.
    Comment from kristos @ 2004/04/23
    Quote:
    Originally posted by piotke
    hey, not bad for my first solder job huh
    Was this your first Vmod or was it the your first solder job?
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/23
    first solder job
    Comment from kristos @ 2004/04/25
    dajjum that takes balls (or a well filled wallet )
    Comment from piotke @ 2004/04/25
    :-)

    I did Vmods before, but then I used SMD grabbers or glue
    Comment from Da_BoKa @ 2004/04/26
    i just did the 3 in 1 mod but for some reason speedfan measures the same vdimm as before ( 2.96 ), i've place a 1k VR between it and it doesn't change when i adjust it

    strange and the board still works
    Comment from kristos @ 2004/09/28
    Ok, I just (finally !!) started practicing on an old (dead?) mobo

    cutting traces seems to be going well, I can't' test if I damaged something by cutting to deep but the trace is cut and the surrounding lines aren't

    So then, I started tinning and soldering and here I got some issues:

    the solder gets sucked onto the soldering iron wich is ok cuz it's supposed to be tinned anyway but I can hardly get any on the wires.

    I'm guessing this is because I'm not using flux? (Didn't have that in the electronics shop, at leatst not the rosin flux...)


    and then the biggest problem: after messing around a while, I started to get "korrels" (grains in english?).
    I'm guessing this is "the other substance" in the solder (not tin but ...) that gets burned because the iron gets to hot (It's a cheapo 25W big tip unregulatable).


    And lastly, I need some advice on how to unsolder one of them tiny SMD's because I tried but I had to try several times on each side before it would come loose and I touched each side waaaaaay longer then 3 seconds. Also, when it finally came off - I was using a small flat screwdriver to move it wich didn't seem like a good idea but I don't know how else to get the SMD off, lifting it with the solder iron didn't work so I'll need some tips on how to do this properly aswell - it slithered to the side and I fear that if I would do this on a good board, solder may stick on some unprotected points, shorting them.



    So, I'll need your advice on why I'm having these problems and how to solve them offcourse



    thx in advace
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/09/29
    can answer on the solder not sticking to wires part: get Flux.
    Comment from jort @ 2004/09/29
    see i dont understand that people play with external flux on grakas mobo etc...

    i did mutch of soldering in my life but i never used flux,
    just use the solder with the flux inside

    i use super solder wire of velleman
    size 60% , dia 1.0 mm
    and it works pritty fine

    dunno its just my thought
    Comment from kristos @ 2004/09/29
    Just got the same advice yort

    but unlike you, I didn't solder much in my life I don't have the experience, and I don't have anyone to turn to for advice on how to do it or what best to buy. Not even the local electronics store could help me with my questions...

    Yes, there's the internet and I'm learning but it's going step by step with falling and getting up ...
    Comment from jmke @ 2004/09/29
    I've done some vmods in the past, used external flux, but I'm a noob when it comes to soldering
    Comment from kristos @ 2004/09/29
    Just checked the manufacturer's site of my solder and apparently I've already got rosin flux solder.

    Don't know why it's not sticking to the solder though...
    Well actually it is, a weeee little, but not enough to my liking, right now, the solder isn't even visible on between the little wires but it's there when I heat it up against a connection point cuz it sticks but I'd rather have the wires tinned to 1 wire so to speak

     

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